Andy Devaney
Adult acne is a different beast from teenage acne. While many teens go through acne for all sorts of reasons, pimples and spots on adult skin are generally driven by hormones, slower skin cell turnover or inflammation. That’s why adult acne treatment is approached from a different angle, often focused more on barrier repair and anti-ageing, just as much as it is based on dealing with bacteria.
However, if you do deal with acne in later years, it can be hard to find the right treatment. Should you choose something topical over the counter? Or will you take the route of laser acne treatment?
In this article, I explain the different tiers of treatments and solutions, so you can handle your skin at your own pace.
Over-the-counter acne solutions
Moderate acne, blackheads and whiteheads can generally be treated with OTC treatments. These are mostly inexpensive and easily accessible, which is why they should generally be your first port of call before taking more severe measures.
- Adapalene is the king of OTC adult acne treatments. It regulates cell turnover to prevent clogged pores, in a stable, less irritating manner.
- Benzoyl peroxide is excellent for killing off acne-causing bacteria; however, stronger formulations can damage and irritate skin, so stick to lighter concentrations
- Salicylic acid is perfect for unclogging blackheads, being an oil-soluble solution that dissolves the ‘glue’ that holds dead skin together.
- Azelaic acid kills bacteria, reduces inflammation and fades post-acne dark spots, helping to treat the whole package.
These are the kind of things you can look for on the high street, perfect if you want to get out in front of your issues.
Prescription acne medication for adults
OTC options ideally work within 8-12 weeks, but if they don’t in that amount of time, you should visit a dermatologist or GP to prescribe adult acne prescription medications.
Topical options
Some of the best topical prescriptions for adult acne include:
- Tretinoin or Retin-A are more potent than OTC retinol or adapalene, known for treating cystic acne effectively.
- Clascoterone 1% is a topical hormone cream that blocks androgen receptors directly in the skin, reducing oil production.
Oral options
More severe, hormonally-driven acne, largely found on the jawline, might be better treated with a regularly taken oral medication.
- Spironolactone was originally prescribed as a blood pressure treatment, but now it’s often given for acne as it blocks androgens that spike hormones. It’s generally considered more effective as a treatment for women and period-related cysts.
- Antibiotics like lymecycline and doxycycline, used for periods of a few months at a time, can do wonders for inflammation. They’re generally paired with topical creams.
- Accutane (isotretinoin) is reserved for intense, treatment-resistant adult acne. It can ‘cure’ it permanently, but it does have some serious potential side effects and requires proper monitoring throughout treatment.
In-clinic treatments
If you can’t figure out how to get rid of adult acne with the above methods, or they simply don’t agree with you for whatever reason, it might be worth considering an in-clinic treatment.
- Herbal peels are a common choice for unclogging pores, smoothing textures and reducing breakouts.
- Blue light therapy is a great way to kill bacteria on your face, reducing mild and moderate acne issues.
- IPL laser acne removal uses broad-spectrum light to get under the skin, shrink glands, reduce inflammation and control oil production. Further laser treatment can then be used to help treat pocking, acne scars and leftover marks.
Note | All of these in-clinic treatments should be compounded with some supplementary creams or ointments, as they can be harsh on the skin.
With this range of treatments, acne in adult males and grown women can be dealt with effectively. It’s just a matter of finding what works for you. Also, remember, taking care of yourself in general is key. Eat well, stay clean and hydrate properly. A healthier base is always where you should start before leaning on treatment.
