If there’s one thing spreading faster than glitter lip gloss in a school playground, it’s skincare advice—served up in 15-second clips and topped with the promise of “glass skin.” But the latest warnings about children’s skin suggest we may be asking young faces to carry grown-up problems far too soon.

New figures indicate more than a quarter (25.7%) of UK children aged 9–12 are using skincare products containing strong, age-inappropriate active ingredients such as retinol and AHAs, while teenage use of anti-ageing products has risen by 21%.

With TikTok skincare routines racking up billions of views and children as young as nine reportedly using anti-wrinkle products, dermatologists are now urging parents to take a breath, take a step back, and remember a radical concept: kids’ skin is meant to be… well, kid skin.

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According to experts, the “right” time to start skincare has little to do with wrinkle prevention and everything to do with keeping skin healthy and protected.

Dr Conal Perrett, Consultant Dermatologist at The Devonshire Clinic, says: “We’re seeing a noticeable rise in teenagers, and even pre-teens, adopting complex skincare routines influenced by social media. The truth is that most young skin does not need active ingredients such as retinol or exfoliating acids. What it does need is protection.

“We’re concerned that children are being marketed adult skincare concerns. There is a psychological impact in telling a 12-year-old they need anti-wrinkle products.

“We have seen an increase in skin barrier damage, irritation from over-exfoliation, sensitivity caused by layering active ingredients, and a growing wave of anxiety around preventing ageing before it is biologically relevant.”

And the online appetite is real. Search interest in terms such as “teen skincare” has soared by 217% over the past month, while TikTok’s #skincare hashtag has amassed 47 million posts. Among tweens, over two-fifths (41%) rely on influencers for recommendations, and 48% are aiming for “perfect” skin—often by piling on up to six products at once.

That’s where the problem begins: children’s skin is typically resilient, balanced, and busy doing what it’s designed to do—without needing a laboratory’s worth of acids and actives.

What is the ideal age to start skincare?

The short answer: earlier doesn’t mean better. The smarter answer: match skincare to what skin actually needs at each stage.

Ages 0–11: Keep it simple

For most children, skincare should be minimal. A moisturiser can help with dry or sensitive skin, and daily SPF matters all year—yes, even when the UK sky is doing its usual impression of wet concrete.

“Sun protection is the single most important skincare step at any age. UV damage in childhood significantly contributes to premature ageing and skin cancer risk later in life,” Dr Perrett explains.

If parents take just one message from this whole debate about children’s skin, it’s this: protection beats perfection, every time.

Ages 12–16: Focus on skin health

Puberty changes the game. Hormonal shifts often bring oiliness and acne, and this is where a gentle, consistent routine can actually help—without veering into “anti-ageing.”

Dermatologists typically recommend:

A gentle cleanser twice daily
A lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturiser
Broad-spectrum SPF 30+ every morning

“This is not the age for anti-ageing serums,” Dr Perrett advises. “Overuse of strong actives can damage the skin barrier and cause long-term sensitivity.”

Ages 17–25: Prevention begins

In the early twenties, skincare can become more preventative. SPF remains the foundation, while antioxidants like vitamin C may be introduced. Retinol, if used, should be low strength and medically guided.

“Collagen production naturally begins to decline in the mid-twenties. That’s when preventative skincare becomes more relevant, not at 13,” Dr Perrett adds.

The real risk: barrier damage, irritation — and anxiety

Adults can forget that when kids copy routines from influencers, they’re not just copying products. They’re copying pressure. The pressure to “fix” normal skin, to chase flawlessness, and to treat ageing like a threat lurking behind the next birthday.

That matters because children’s skin can react strongly to over-exfoliation and ingredient layering—especially when routines are trend-driven rather than skin-driven. The concerns being raised include irritation, sensitivity, and barrier disruption, along with a growing anxiety around preventing ageing “before it is biologically relevant.”

Three rules parents should follow

Dr Perrett advises parents to focus on three core principles:

SPF is non-negotiable — year-round protection is more important than any serum.
Avoid ‘trend-driven’ ingredients — especially retinol, AHAs, BHAs and strong peels for under-16s.
Seek medical advice for persistent acne — don’t rely on influencer recommendations.

Skin cancer rates in the UK continue to rise, and UV exposure during childhood remains one of the most significant modifiable risk factors. At the same time, the skincare market is increasingly targeting younger consumers—often blurring the line between education and persuasion.

“The goal should not be to prevent ageing at 14,” Dr Perrett says. “It should be to maintain healthy skin and protect it for the future. Skincare is not about stopping the clock in your teens; it is about building good habits that support long-term skin health.”

Skincare order matters — but not for kids

For adults and older teens using active ingredients, the order you apply products can make a difference. But first, a crucial qualifier: this isn’t a template for children’s skin.

“Mornings should focus on protection, while evenings should prioritise repair. Apply products from the thinnest to the thickest texture to ensure proper absorption. Use water-based formulas before oil-based ones and always apply SPF last in the morning so it can form an effective protective shield.”

12-step adult skincare order (not suitable for children)

Dr Perrett recommends this structure for adults and older teenagers, typically 17+, who require more advanced, targeted skincare.

Morning routine

Cleanser — Removes sweat, oil, bacteria and leftover nighttime products, creating a clean base for other ingredients.
Toner — Modern formulas hydrate, rebalance pH or deliver light active ingredients.
Treatment serums — This is your “choose what you actually need” step. Hydration feeling low? Reaching for glow? Getting shiny by lunchtime? Pop on a serum that targets that one thing, and layer it in from lightest to richest so it sinks in properly.
Eye cream — Not essential for everyone, but if your under-eyes get dry, tight or a bit crinkly, a small dab can help keep that delicate skin comfortable. (Tiny amount. Ring finger. No yanking.)
Moisturiser — The unsexy hero. It locks in hydration and helps keep your skin barrier happy. And yes, even oily skin needs it—skip moisturiser and your face can overcompensate by producing more oil. Rude, but true.
Suncream — The daily non-negotiable. UV damage is behind up to 80–90% of visible ageing and it ramps up skin cancer risk too, so this is the bit you don’t “save for summer.” Broad-spectrum SPF 30+ every day—even when it’s grey and pretending the sun doesn’t exist.

Evening routine
7. Cleanser — If you’ve worn make-up or SPF, consider a double cleanse: first pass to break everything down, second to properly clean your skin so you’re not going to bed with the day still on your face.

8. Toner — Optional, but useful. Go hydrating if you’re dry or tight; keep it gentle if you’re using actives elsewhere. The aim is comfort, not sting.
9. Treatment products — This is when stronger ingredients are typically used, such as retinol, AHAs/BHAs or prescribed acne treatments. Some actives increase sun sensitivity and work best during the skin’s natural night-time repair cycle.
10. Hydrating serum — Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid can help minimise irritation from stronger treatments.
11. Moisturiser — Seals in treatment products and prevents dryness.
12. Facial oil — Applied last, as oils are occlusive and help lock everything in.

Bottom line: protect kids’ skin, don’t “age-proof” it

The loudest lesson from this whole trend is surprisingly simple: children’s skin doesn’t need a 10-step routine. It needs calm, consistency, and protection—especially from UV exposure and from the idea that their face is a problem to solve.

And if a nine-year-old is asking for retinol? That’s not a skincare emergency. That’s a conversation—and parents still have the best product in the house for it: common sense.

Anti-Ageing at 13? Experts Say TikTok Routines Are Going Too Far